Wild by Tart

As a dedicated reader of the Evening Standard magazine for many years, I have been a long-standing fan of Tart London, where I first discovered duo Lucy Carr-Ellison and Jemima Jones’ food column. Having founded their own shoot catering company in 2012, the pair became weekly food columnists in the Big Smoke’s free lifestyle glossy in 2016. Last summer marked the end of their contribution (their farewell piece being one I actually mention here), but fortunately coincided with my birthday when I was given their first book, A Love of Eating (2018). Thoughtfully curated, filled with fuss-free, hearty and inspiring ideas, Tart’s recipes have become my latest staples. When my sister noticed the opening of their new restaurant she suggested going for my mum’s birthday, just before Christmas. The menu was delicious as expected; the lamb with polenta was our favourite and my crème brûlée was sensational – the orangey blackberries made for the perfect combo, their tartness cutting through the cream in a pudding which can sometimes be a bit one dimensional. The place itself is large, almost overwhelming so (at 9,000 square feet in total), but the exposed ceilings of the former power station complete with creeping vines and foliage make for an impressive atmosphere and it would make a remarkable space for an event. With the conversations about food sourcing and sustainability growing, Wild by Tart could not be better placed, as champions of fresh, local and seasonal produce with knowledgable and engaging staff they are set to flourish over the next year.

We ate…

Bites

Grilled London halloumi with honey, lime, chilli and coriander

From the Grill

Marinated quail, coal roasted Babaganoush, shaved fennel, herbs and toasted cumin seeds

From the Wood Oven

Slow roasted Cannwood lamb creamy polenta with spring onion and coriander salsa

Puds

Bay leaf crème brûlée with orange steeped blackberries

Cannoli mille-feuille, praline mousse, chocolate crémeaux & hazelnut

Passionfruit tartlet, mango, lime, basil & Italian meringue

Plates

Coal-roasted baby beetroot

Whipped oak aged feta, smoked almonds and dill oil

Wild mushrooms, tarragon, walnuts, roast fennel & celeriac purée

Devonshire crab, fennel & chilli tagliatelle with tarragon oil

Sides

Smashed crispy potatoes with rosemary, salt and garlic toum

Tossed greens, confit garlic and lemon

And drank…

Noelia Ricci ‘Il Sangiovese’ – a ‘wild’ red wine from Italy

And drank…

Noelia Ricci ‘Il Sangiovese’ – a ‘wild’ red wine from Italy