The Zest Reflections

27 Elliott's

27 Elliott's

A short piece remembering my breakfast at 27 Elliott’s in Edinburgh a few weeks ago. Reminiscing about the luxury of spending time in favourite cafés. 27 Elliott’s is still open for essentials, so please support this brilliant small business if you are in Edinburgh and in need of supplies. More details at the bottom of the page.

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A dog tucked between the feet of her owners, bathes contently in the pool of sunlight streaming through the window. Kilner jars line the shelves housing carrots and cucumbers that pickle in pale vinegars. In the opposite corner friends chatter animatedly, recalling tales from the weekend’s antics. Bottles of wine stand side by side proudly exhibiting their hand drawn labels and natural, orange contents. A gentleman pores over his newspaper in between mouthfuls of scrambled eggs whilst a child watches him, intrigued. The toddler’s sister sits less patiently, squawking like a baby bird at regular intervals to ensure she is not deprived of the chocolate cookie they have been sharing.

Our coffees arrive perfectly smooth, with hearts decorating the frothy contents. A teapot joins, set on the table so that the leaves dance and swirl about their container. It sits, brewing conscientiously until it is carefully poured into its ceramic companion. Plates follow, piled high with eggs on sourdough toast, the first are fried with sage and lemony greens, the next; scrambled with salsa verde. A stack of pancakes appear thick and fluffy like drop scones, topped with slices of blood orange and a rhubarb caramel, yoghurt and handfuls of hazelnuts. Recipe books are shuffled into a neat bundle, to make room for the feast, waiting at the edge of the table for the next customers’ perusal. Then more toast, this time with homemade gooseberry jam and melted butter that dribbles through the cracks onto fingers.

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A soft buzz meanders from the kitchen amongst the sound of pots and pans moving across the stove. Above the grind of the coffee machine, a Spotify mixtape gently hums. Smiles are exchanged as tummies are happily filled. The peaceful bustle is interrupted momentarily, as the door judders open, its frame frail from weathering. A young couple arrive, red-cheeked and cheerful squeezing in hastily to shut out the chill. The pair with the border terrier begin to shrug on their coats and words are shared and seats exchanged as they wrap scarves around their necks. The rosy-faced couple order; an espresso, one filter coffee and a rhubarb and almond friand.

As our final crumbs are finished we gather ourselves, moving outside, into the cold morning. The sun is shining, but the air is bitter, biting at our fingers in an abrupt reminder that despite the sun, it is still Scotland in February. A brief discussion about which way to walk, and we decide to head towards the hills. With the meadows on our left, we leave the pink sandstone houses behind us, as if to start the day again.

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27 Elliott’s is open Wednesday – Saturday (10am-2pm) for all essentials : bread, hot-cross buns, milk, chocolate, eggs, cookbooks, wine, coffee, beer & wine-braised beans to takeaway. You can also order owner Jess’ latest cookbook Tin Can Magic – for simple recipe ideas. Each chapter is dedicated to a tin: anchovies, butter beans, cherries, chickpeas, coconut milk, condensed milk, green lentils, sweetcorn and tomatoes – the perfect place to look for inspiration for your pantry staples.

Annabel McLean